Featured Blogger - Kimberly Truhler

Kimberly Truhler

Kimberly Truhler

A few years ago Doreen and I were at the most amazing vintage pop-up market called A Current Affair in Los Angeles. The brains behind this show is Richard Wainwright and he introduced us to his friend Kimberly Truhler. Stylishly dressed, well spoken and truly cool, we hit it off, as we found out we all had a love for everything vintage, especially film designers. I started following Kimberly’s blog GlamAmor and felt I needed to share it with you.

So what is GlamAmor? GlamAmor was founded for the preservation, education, and curation of the HISTORY OF FASHION IN FILM and sharing how that legacy of iconic costume design continues to influence fashion today. It became Kimberly’s mission when, after more than 20 years of study, teaching the HISTORY OF FASHION IN FILM, and acting as an expert for everyone from Turner Classic Movies (TCM) to Elle Canada, she found that costume design was still surprisingly under-appreciated by both the classic cinema and fashion communities alike.

The goal of GlamAmor is to show that the classics endure and continue to influence today's design. 

Old Hollywood from Vintage Sizing and Silhouettes post. 

Old Hollywood from Vintage Sizing and Silhouettes post. 

At Fashion by Robert Black, we get asked a lot about the vintage sizing and how it differs from today's modern sizing. In fact, we measure the bust, waist and hips of all of our dresses in the store to make it more convenient for our customers since the sizing was so different. Kimberly wrote a blog post, Vintage Sizing and Silhouettes, which gives us great insight and explanation to how vintage sizing works and I wanted to share her expertise with you.

Check out Vintage Sizing and Silhouettes here! 

I hope you enjoy Kimberly’s insight, knowledge and passion and please check her out her blog, GlamAmor

-Robert 

Tis the Season…. For Fashion Shows

We are always thrilled and delighted to do fashion shows during season that showcase the collections that we have acquired, as well as our "ready to wear" vintage pieces. What is very apparent to me is how much work goes into the production of each and every show. Usually there is a charity or organization involved and they are fundraising for their cause. A team of volunteers start creating the look, feel and time line of the event; from food to flowers, to lighting to the venue and finally to the show itself.

That’s where we come in!

Now my favorite is when there is a show coordinator like Dave Dodge of Ideation Nation who makes life simple and easy, sound and staging by Chris Beckley and of course the amazing models that bring our clothes to life from Ford Robert Black Agency…the only agency in town we will hire models from! Now that our team is in place, everyone gets to work doing their jobs.

If you are an obsessive Virgo like I am then it takes you twice as long... you have dreams about the changes you are going to make and have inspirational ideas while running on the treadmill. I usually start with a concept or what I want the show to look like, the feel and the message of the show. Will we do one uber famous designer or a color collection like the Little Black Dress, or will we create a spring flower show or maybe a 60's cocktail party, either way now the fun begins.

I stalk our racks, look at our collections and start to pull the clothes I think will WOW our audience. Usually the pull is done over a period of time and down to days before the actual show, as we get new items in almost every day so I don't want to miss anything! Did I mention, I’m obsessive? Next I try to line them up and keep editing until I feel the show is visually done. Next we choose the models that best represent the clothes we are showing.. Now Jennifer is ready to Bag and Tag the clothing, once Doreen is done steaming and prepping. I then put the girls,(clothes and models), into a lineup by numeric order and model groupings, then they are  ready to transport to the venue.

Once we arrive we are prepared for battle.. The models start coming in for hair and makeup and the transformation team gets to work..

We do a quick fitting with each girl testing zippers, adding push up bras and matching their modern shoes to our vintage clothes. If time allows we do a quick run though on the runway for timing and last minute notes. Then the show begins and I can quite obsessing... at least until the next show!!  

Photos Courtesy of Project Pink. Models: FORD/RBA. Dave Dodge of Ideation Nation. Sound and Staging Chris Beckley.

Even More Vintage Shopping Tips!

Personally I feel that it is always a good idea to mix vintage with the contemporary. The general goal is not to dress as if you were in a period movie. Vintage works best in pieces. A great coat with a modern top and jeans, a vintage dress with killer hip heals, a vintage skirt paired with boots and your favorite boyfriend jacket! As with any wardrobe item think about how it works with your current closet. I have had many clients buy an item to literally display as a work of art and collectors buy those items to add to their nest egg of clothes or fulfill the need to own that wonderful piece of art. If you are trying to dress the part from head to heal then do a little online research to see what was appropriate for the time you are re-creating. Do you need panty hose, girdles, a Bullitt bra, hats, gloves and what was  the jewelry like or how high were the heals?

Fashion Tip: Revlon’s Fire and Ice is a must have lipstick created in the 50’s. It is the perfect shade of red! Remember my first tip; it must be fun for you!

Accessorize! You can find truly amazing earrings, bracelets, necklaces and pins in the vintage market... All of these will enhance your contemporary clothes and add a statement. Notice the color combinations, texture and design when purchasing what catches your eye. If you are starting a collection follow your desires and look for those items that draw you in, it may be the glitzy rhinestones of the 50’s or the art deco inspiration of the 20’s. Costume jewelry is truly readily available and in demand. Your mother’s jewelry box is a great place to start. The sparkles can be diamonds or paste but whatever the budget you have a plethora of choices. Remember to treat them with care as they too have seen a lot of years and use.

Buy it when you see it... Vintage is unique and available in limited edition. Rarely will you ever see the same garment twice! If you like it, it fits and it is in your budget, then buy! The old saying, "if you snooze you loose" applies to buying vintage. I have been the victim of seeing something and literally within minutes someone else has scooped up my treasure and it is gone forever... Well that may be a bit dramatic but it is how you feel in that moment, so grab that item if it does not put your finances at risk. I also suggest that if you are in love with an item and you don’t know where you will wear it, buy it anyway; create the need. I do it with sport coats and cufflinks all the time. I recently attended the Hollywood premier of  Breaking Dawn, the latest Twilight movie, thanks to my long time vintage shopping buddy and her partner, and low and behold in my closet was a black velvet tuxedo jacket printed with small bats… When I bought it years ago I knew one day I would need that jacket!!

If you are starting a collection, designer labels will cost more and provide a higher value in the end. It is best to start with an era, designer, color or theme and then let the collection take its own form. Collecting is a very fun obsession and the hunt is what drives the collector! Always look for quality over quantity in collecting. My first collection was anything and everything that was cheap and interesting. I did not really know what I was looking for just that I was a bit obsessed. I now have three collections running with my business partner Doreen Picerne; Hollywood, Scottsdale Southwest, and what I call the New Wave, that includes items from the 80’s and 90’s. Hollywood includes the masters that dressed the stars and were the golden boys and girls of the studios. We have Adrian, Edith Head, Nudie Cohen, Helen Rose, Charles Lemaire.... to mention just a few. Scottsdale Southwest includes Lloyd Kiva New, Leonna Caldwell, Jeri, Kay Bennett, Goldwater’s and just about anything with roadrunners and cactus. The New Wave is really fun. It is in the making but includes crazy, and I mean crazy beaded, sequined pictorial pieces and my new favorite designer Patrick Kelly. When you find something you love you can create the collection! Also remember that the designer most likely did jewelry and accessories, it helps you justify buying that must-have item.

Follow your instincts. When shopping vintage it is always fun to have an enabler along but know that not everyone gets what is going on with vintage. If you are friend shopping and your friend is not into it, find another friend… to shop with! If your friend is a kindred spirit you will learn to eyeball the store quickly and spring into action the minute something catches your eye. Set your rules down early as it is not unusual for your friend, at least my friends, to shove you aside to score that Dior hat! You have to follow that feeling in your gut that makes you pay attention no matter what the peanut gallery has to say. I have several female friends who shop like crazy at the mall but would rather soak in cyanide than buy a vintage garment. I am ok with that as I have made so many new friends who love and appreciate it the way I do. Vintage clothing should evoke an emotion so only buy what makes you feel special, sexy and beautiful or evokes a fond memory. If you laugh, say "oh my", "wow", or feel light headed…. You have found your vintage garment! Warning: People will start stopping you on the street to to ask you where you got that amazing outfit!!

-Robert Black